Andes to the Amazon, Peru 2005  
        2-16 
      July 2005 
        by
        Henry Detwiler 
         
        Suzanne, Gaby, Adriana, Becky and I enjoyed two weeks in Peru with our 
      friend Jim Rorabaugh, starting in the Inca Valley, moving on to the Amazon 
      Basin, and ending up at Paracas National Park.  It was a fantastic 
      experience!   
        231 
      species -- bird list may be viewed by clicking > BIRD LIST 
        Click on
        thumbnail pictures for full-sized photos.    
        
         
      
        
          We spent the first night in Lima, and then left the 
          next morning via air for Cusco.  Then a van trip took us to Pisac, our 
          first real destination.  Here we explored our first Inca ruins, had 
          a blast bargaining at the indigenous market, spotted a Pygmy Owl, and saw 
          lots of Sparkling Violetears. 
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              Sparkling Violetear  | 
         
        
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            Plaza de Armas - Cusco 
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            In Cusco, the "bellybutton" of the Inca 
            civilization, we wandered past ancient Inca walls, along colonial 
            cobblestone streets, marveled at massive Spanish cathedrals, shopped in 
            quaint stores and the flea market, and ate typical Peruvian 
            cuisine. | 
         
       
      
        
          | Jim and I spent one morning at Huarcapay Lakes, where 
          we saw many fine birds, including this Black-throated Flowerpiercer, 
          Plumbeous Rail, Silvery & White-tufted Grebes, Andean Duck, 
          Cinereous Harrier, and Andean 
          Lapwing.  And we were happy to add two fine hummingbirds, the 
          Giant Hummingbird and the Bearded Mountaineer.  | 
          
                  
            Black-throated Flowerpiercer 
   
             
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        Ollantytambo Ruins 
            
              
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             Our next destination was Ollantytambo, another Inca 
            town along the Urubamba River.  This heavily fortified city was 
            the only one that allowed the Incas to repel the Spanish 
            conquistadors.  The giant blocks that make up the walls were so 
            finely fitted together that you can't even fit a blade of grass 
            between the stones. 
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          Machu Picchu 
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              The next morning we took the train from Ollantytambo to Aguas 
              Calientes, the jumping-off point to Machu Picchu.  That 
              afternoon we walked the tracks through the cloud forest and saw 
              almost a dozen beautiful tanagers, like the Blue-gray Tanager 
              pictured below.  An early-morning bus trip took us to the 
              fabled city of Machu Picchu.  As the fog and rain swept over 
              the ruins, we marveled at the awesome sight.  One special 
              bird we found here was the endemic Inca Wren. 
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            Blue-gray Tanager  | 
            
               
              
                
              Parrot Snake 
              
              Adriana found this parrot snake along our hike to a small 
              waterfall several miles west of Aguas Calientes.  It was to 
              be the only snake we saw over the entire two weeks. 
     
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            Hummingbirds and tanagers symbolized 
            the beautiful birds in the cloud forest surrounding Machu Picchu.  
            At the feeders of the Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, we were treated to 
            magnificent views of these amazing creatures.  In addition to 
            these most common coronets and racquet-tails, we were happy to see 
            Gould's Incas, Green and White Hummingbirds, woodstars, and 
            Long-tailed Sylph.  And then, a flash of red turned out to be 
            the state bird, a magnificent Cock-of-the Rock!  | 
            
               
              
                
              Chestnut-breasted Coronet 
    
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              Booted Racquettail  | 
            
               This tanager was one of many that we saw, along 
              with Silver-beaked Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, and 
              Blue-and-Black Tanager. 
                 
              Golden-naped Tanager 
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